Experience Telangana’s culinary terrain with Terrāi
Experience Telangana’s culinary terrain with Terrāi
Terrāi at Sattva Knowledge Park, Hyderabad, is more than just another wine and dine destination. Its tall ceiling and lampshades are inspired by Bathukamma, the flower festival celebrated by the women of Telangana, and the rustic tones of the interiors reflect the earthy feel of the region’s dominant red soil, while the occasional inclusion of rock is a tribute to the Deccan landscape. When natural light trickles in through the doors and windows, it creates a sense of extended daylight.
Terrāi attributes its origins to the terrain and rich history, culture and culinary legacy of the state of Telangana; its name is derived from the defining topography of the region and celebrates Deccan and Telangana in all aspects. Its founders Rohit Kasuganti and Anisha Deevakonda focussed on reinventing the traditional cuisine of the region to propagate the culture and community.
As the creative head, Anisha adds, “Terrāi is a creative canvas where we weave the rich cultural and artistic elements of Telangana into every detail; from the stunning Dokra art by local artisans to sourcing textiles for our Ikat-inspired decor, every partnership reflects the soul of Telangana. Our mission is to ensure that every guest experiences our heritage through both innovative and traditional cuisine.”
For the uninitiated, Telangana’s cuisine is influenced by the Deccan and Telugu cultures, as well as the Nizami opulence and artistry. The variety of flavours and textures showcased celebrates local women farmers and tribal chefs who use time-honoured techniques and ingredients to create some rustic and complex flavours reflecting their farm-to-table approach.
Rohit, also the CEO, says, “Culture, community and culinary, form the founding principles of Terrāi. Based on this, we have partnered with the Deccan Development Society (DDS) — a 40-year-old farmers’ cooperative led by 5,000 indigenous women — in Zaheerabad, Telangana. DDS promotes sustainable farming, protects biodiversity and champions food sovereignty. Active in 50 villages, it has positively impacted over 4,00,000 lives by empowering communities in nutrition, seed preservation, and local markets.”
Terrāi’s strong connection with DDS’ community work is obvious from the photos that adorn one wall of the restaurant. “Currently, Terrāi sources 90% of its indigenous ingredients from DDS farmers, alongside uncultivated greens — leafy vegetables that grow symbiotically with the millets due to their chemical-free, organic farming practices.” Rohit explains, adding, “We want Terrāi to lead a revolution of sorts, to propagate Telangana cuisine to the world.“
Meanwhile I got a rum-based cocktail that was beautifully blended with gongura pickle. The drink’s bleeding ruby-red hue urged me to take a sip without delay. The first sip assured me I would be eating and tasting much more. Then came the Star Martini, a gin-based drink that has the tang of passion fruit coupled with a spicy zing from star anise and ginger ale. I could tell there was no stopping now. After the Golconda gimlet, I threw my hands up and declared, “Drinking is good accompanied by food on the side.”
The chef carefully chooses dishes for me, like marag country chicken soup and horse gram rasam for me to test I like non-vegetarian food and will not shy away from spice. The exhaustive menu strikes a balance between vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. If there is palak patta chaat and mixed grains bhel, there is also podi-crusted egg ghee roast, spicy roasted lamb ribs, bheja fry appam and ghee roast chicken tikka. At Terrāi every dish has a distinct identity. It is definitely not a case of one-recipe-fits-all.
Staying true to Telangana’s love for country chicken curry, Terrāi has it’s version: a smooth, spicy curry that wakes your senses but won’t make you cry with the heat of the spices. Of course, they have biryani. But do try the tahari, vankaya pulao and the farmer’s staple khichdi made with millets.
What will I go back again for? The neer dosa with chicken curry, simply because this came towards the end and I could not relish more than one of those cottony soft, tissue thin dosas.
Dessert was kunafa-e-nuts and dark chocolate mousse.
