Tribute | Rohit Bal: the flamboyant designer rooted in heritage yet globally resonant
Tribute | Rohit Bal: the flamboyant designer rooted in heritage yet globally resonant
“There will never be another Gudda.” A sentiment expressed by all those who knew the legendary couturier Rohit Bal (fondly known as Gudda), echoed through the air, as I sat beneath a canopy of light and memory. The Blenders Pride Fashion Tour unfolded in Gurugram, not just as a showcase, but as an immersive celebration of Bal’s extraordinary life and timeless legacy.
Known for his maximalist ethos balanced with an undercurrent of sophisticated restraint, Bal was a storyteller, weaving narratives of heritage, opulence, and romance into each of his creations. The showcase was a visual memoir of his journey, featuring his muses, friends, family, and fellow designers who have walked with him through the tapestry of time.
The set, envisioned by Sumant Jayakrishnan, was like a canvas where larger-than-life projections of Bal’s photographs and archival footage painted a vivid portrait of his illustrious career. The atmosphere was drenched in nostalgia, punctuated by the soulful strains of Vibha Saraf’s Kashmiri melodies. As the show gathered momentum, the music swelled in harmony, with Deveshi Sahgal singing popular folk songs as his muses in typical Bal fashion twirled and swayed in abandon.
A procession of memories
The casting was a who’s who of popular faces. Kalyani Chawla opened the show and was soon followed by OG supermodels Carol Gracias, Sheetal Malhar, Mugdha Godse, Rahul Dev, Marc Robinson and Muzzamil Ibrahim. Filmmaker Madhur Bhandarkar and TV host Rajiv Makhni were joined by designers JJ Valaya, Malini Ramani, Rahul Khanna, Rohit Gandhi, Ashish Soni. Actors Esha Gupta and Sonam Kapoor too sashayed down the runway, embodying Bal’s design spirit. His signature floor-grazing jackets with sharp slits, flowing kalidar kurtas, regal sherwanis, and pleated gowns dominated the showcase. His distinctive motifs — peacocks, lotuses, and roses came alive through intricate zardozi and resham in opulent velvets, lightweight mulmul and diaphanous cotton. The colour palette ranged from hues of ivory and inky black to crimson.
The showcase was a reminder that Bal’s design philosophy was a paradox — maximalist yet sophisticated, rooted in heritage yet globally resonant. His silhouettes transcended fleeting trends, making his creations as relevant in Delhi’s vibrant streets as they would be in the gilded salons of Paris.
The man behind the magic
Prasad Bidapa, fashion choreographer and close confidant, reflected, “Rohit was a design genius. In any alternate universe, he could have been the Versace of India. But Gudda guarded his craft fiercely, preserving its artisanal soul over commercial expansion.”
Bal redefined sensuality, draping his muses in layers that celebrated form without revealing skin. Model Rahul Dev recalled, “He made everything seem effortless. His impeccable craft spoke louder than words.” The artistry that Bal demonstrated came with a deep understanding of history, which he studied at the prestigious St Stephens College, and profound knowledge of the intricacies of fashion, which he honed at NIFT, New Delhi.
Ashish Soni, Bal’s first apprentice, said, “His knowledge transcended fashion. Philosophy, history, poetry, art — Gudda lived and breathed it all. His craft is unmatchable.” During the pandemic, when Soni hit a low point, it was Bal who lifted his spirits with a simple phone call. “He had this way of pulling you out of darkness,” Soni shared.
Bal’s generosity, his fondness for his friends and zeal for life deserve as much mention as is his craft. Mugdha Godse reminisced, “In my early days, his shows were the highlight. He’d dance on stage, celebrating life — in pure, infectious joy.”
For Muzzamil Ibrahim, Bal was family. “I was just 18, fresh off winning Gladrags, nervous as hell. He pulled my cheeks and said, ‘You’re my kid brother now.’ He called me that till the end,” he says, adding, “His legacy continues and his clothes go on but part of the magic is gone, it’s irreplaceable. It will never be the same.”
A legacy rooted in Kashmiriyat
Kashmir was not just Bal’s homeland; it was the soul of his art. From delicate embroidery inspired by valley blooms to the melancholic melodies in his shows, his heritage was his muse.
Designer Rahul Khanna said, “Wearing a Gudda creation makes you feel like you are on top of the world. His work was flamboyant yet deeply personal.”
Sonam Kapoor, who broke down in tears while closing the show, wore an ensemble steeped in sentiment. “I wore this at my cousin’s wedding — it has his signature peacock motif. I love Gudda’s creations and what he stood for, which is to enjoy everything that’s beautiful in life and to celebrate it. That’s how we should remember him.”
The curtain call
Rohit Bal’s story is not just stitched into the fabric of Indian fashion but into the hearts of all who knew him, wore him, and were touched by his artistry.
The evening was more than a fashion showcase; it was a heartfelt farewell, meticulously orchestrated by Sunil Sethi, chairman of the Fashion Design Council of India and Soni. “We wanted to create a send-off that a legend like Gudda deserves,” shared Soni, and they delivered.
